Inspector’s Blog

Foundation Wall Crack Repair - Vertical Cracks
By Jacques Bouchard

Vertical cracks in a foundation occur most often due to poor construction practice or when foundation concrete shrinks and cures. These cracks are common in both newly constructed homes and in older ones. While vertical wall cracks in the foundation do not often lead to structural issues as often as horizontal cracks, they commonly leak water from the foundation outside into the basement or crawl space area. In fact, this water flow can be so heavy that some customers call in saying that water was literally squirting into the house!

The unfortunate truth of the matter is that no one wants to buy a home with a leaking foundation wall crack. Certainly, no one wishes to live in a home with foundation water! Damaged or deteriorating foundation walls lead to a great deal of problems for homeowners and their bank accounts. Foundation soil water entering into a basement will cause a home to be difficult (if not impossible) to sell and will cause the home to lose 10% or more of its value. This means that with a $200,000 home, the value will suffer by $20,000! The problem will only worsen with time as more water rushes through the crack and the forces of nature open the crack even wider.

Home Foundation Repair

Do-it-yourself wall crack solutions are not the answer. In many cases, homeowners will attempt to repair the problem simply by adding caulk in the gaps. With a caulk seal, efflorescence will build up as water fills the crack up to the caulking and cause this plug to peel off. Additionally, if the crack isn’t clean, the caulk will bond to the dirt instead of the cement, which will weaken its effectiveness. Of course, the seal will work for a little while, but if you want to fix the problem so your foundation wall never leaks, this isn’t the answer.

Filling a wall crack with hydraulic cement or other rigid substances is also doomed to failure. The problem here is that while the hole is plugged, the problem (foundation water pressing in from the outside) still exists. Over time, as the foundation swells and shrinks with changes in temperature and moisture, the movement will work the plug loose. Foundation leaking will often begin again in about two years.

In cases where epoxy is used, the seal may still hold, but its rigidity will cause the wall to simply crack again nearby as it continues to expand and contract. Additionally, epoxy tends to cure very slowly, and it may actually run out from the other side of the crack before completely hardening. The surface to which the epoxy is added must be completely dry so it may form a proper bond. Alternatively, urethane seals work somewhat better because they’re flexible and expandable, but cracks can easily shift and expand over 100% in time, which is far beyond the ability of this material to stretch.

Dirty Work

Another possible way to repair a leaking foundation wall crack is from the outside. To do this, you’ll have to dig straight down the foundation and uncover the entire wall crack. Hopefully, there’s no sidewalk, bush, garden, front steps, or anything else in the way of the area where the crack is located or they will need to be removed. If there’s a porch, deck, or outside stairs in the way, you’ll have to work around it somehow or remove it as well. Digging out the dirt will leave mounds in your yard and create a mess, and as the dirt is backfilled back in, it will be more porous and water-absorbent than ever. While the multiple layers of synthetic waterproof materials you install will often be effective in solving the problem, if there is ever a failure on the seal, the entire process will have to be repeated. Also, you will have to regrade the soil that was excavated over the next year to prevent it from pooling around the foundation and adding to the problem.

A Foundation Waterproofing Solution that Works EVERY Time

All of the foundation repair solutions above do work- some of the time. If you’re interested in a solution that works every time, however, look to the FlexiSpan wall crack repair solution. The FlexiSpan installation begins by locating a way for potential water to drain outside of the basement- either through a perimeter French drain system or through a small drywell created by the installer. The crack is sealed with a urethane-based sealant (not the same one mentioned earlier - this one can expand to 20 times its original volume!). It bonds well with both wet and dry concrete surfaces, and it’s impenetrable to water. It allows repair without invasive excavation of the yard, and the polyurethane polymer has a low viscosity that allows it to easily fill hairline cracks.

Even in cases where the seal fails, 95% of the water will be prevented from passing through. Any remaining water is intercepted by a foam strip laid over the crack that will direct water down to the drywell. As a finishing touch, the sealed foundation wall crack and foam strip is coated over with material that will make it as invisible as possible and will give it a clean, gray tooled-off look. The drywell is covered over with fresh concrete, and the leak is fixed neatly and forever!

Basement Systems’ basement waterproofing dealers can install this solution all across the United States as well as in Canada and the UK. If you’re interested in a free, no-obligation estimate on this product, call or contact us today!

Jacques Bouchard
Basement Systems
Total Basement Finishing

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Jacques_Bouchard

Foundation Repair - Foundation Frustration Chapter 1
By Ed Eckley

Foundation Frustration….A term that matches the situation quite well I believe.

I would like to start this article with a little description of myself. I know that many of you are wondering who I am, and what makes me an authority on building foundations?… Well, first of all, I will never claim to be the authority on anything, even though I have devoted most of my life to the industry. I am just another guy, like you, that is going through life with similar questions, and similar frustrations. The reason I try so hard to protect foundations is simple: I wish for good things, and I will try to make them last forever. My lovely wife accepted my proposal 27 years ago. We are devoted to each other and will likely stay together forever. She is my foundation. Without her, I was just another human structure waiting to be stabilized.

When you read my articles, you will begin to realize that I am just as frustrated as you..

You have good reasons for your frustrations: You have purchased a new home and it has begun settling or twisting, Or, You have an old building that has been around for decades, never had any particular problems, and just recently you are noticing cracks in the walls and the floors are starting to slope. You are upset, Naturally, and you want some answers… You have been reading lots and lots of opinion based articles. You have asked friends, neighbors, even your mother, about their thoughts. You have probably done more research than a college student cramming for a test.
The frustration increases. The more you learn, the more you are confused. Many things sound logical. Many different Ideas make sense, but why are there so many different possibilities?, and why do they all seem like lab experiments?

You are now quite frustrated and angry with your realtor, Your builder, Even your neighbor that went out of town on vacation and forgot to turn off the sprinklers. Somebody must be to blame!…You are so upset that you threw the paper back at the paper boy……You have screamed out at your neighbors that always watch you get the paper: Hey! what are you looking at?…. You have rushed back inside and slammed the door….The door won’t shut correctly and it pops back open…..Now you notice that the crack in the wall has traveled even further…..By now you are smoking hot…..You want to slap somebody, anybody, God help any vacuum cleaner salesman that might come to the door right about now…..You have decided to take a nice hot shower. Now you sit down and pour yourself a cup of your favorite coffee……Your heart beat has slowed back down to normal….You take a couple of deep breaths and now you are feeling much better……You go over to your computer and begin more research. This time you stumble upon this particular article and it makes you laugh because you notice the truth right a way. You may not have done all of those crazy things but most people would.

You are not alone in your quest for answers. Your problems are not as difficult to solve as you might think. Hundreds of thousands of buildings are settling and cracking all over the country and I can guarantee you that no matter how bad yours may seem, there are much worse.

I am going to state some useful facts that may or may not apply to the situation that you are experiencing. This particular chapter deals with old homes and structures. Old buildings do weaken in time much like people, But they can still stand strong. They may just need a little help.
One question that I hear alot is this: Why did this building settle recently?…After all the building has withstood some of the most severe storms of the century. The building has stood strong through generations of family……Why did this building start settling and cracking now?

There are several possibilities, and we are going to examine them based on facts. The fact that the building is old, demonstrates the fact that the plumbing is old. You may have experienced a water leak, and had it fixed, and assumed that the problem was over. That may have been months ago, and you are thinking that couldn’t be related to this problem, Could it?…….Absolutely!…..Ground saturation will sometimes settle a foundation rapidly, (within days), and sometimes it takes weeks or even months because different soils react differently. Most clay based soils will contract and literally suck the foundation downward when it is drying out.

Another likely cause to foundation settlement is the sewer drain. The drain pipes under the older homes were either clay tile with cemented hub connectors, or ductile cast iron with lead poured joints.

There is a very high probability that the drain leaks. The reason I say this is because most of the buildings in older communities have mature trees or deep rooted plants of some sort. When you have called plumbers in the past to clean your drains, what are the things that they usually discover?….Tree roots and hair… Ok, so, How did the tree roots get in there?…. Through the pipe joints or cracks in the pipe. The fact that tree roots got in, indicates the fact that water has been getting out.

Another likely cause to the foundation settlement may be the water supply line. The older buildings used galvanized steel pipe to connect from the city main, to the building. The thing about steel is that no matter what, it will eventually corrode and begin leaking. The pipe can have thousands of pinholes and small cracks, and still function just fine. The problem is that lots of water can be escaping beneath the front yard and it can go un-detected until it eventually bursts and creates a big mess.

You should examine your front yard. Look for signs of sinking low spots in the yard. look for sinking sidewalks, sinking or tilting front porch.

There is a chance that some foundation repair costs will be covered by your homeowners insurance company if you can positively determine that it is from a plumbing problem.

You may have to be persistent, and you may have to obtain professional proof, but it may save you lots of money, and put an end to your frustration.

Some of you are thinking that perhaps the old building has out lived its intended life span, and that maybe it should be taken down. I say to you: Please don’t think that way. Think of your house or building as a living thing, after all, It is important to preserve history and keep it alive!

Remember this: Newer, is not better, it is just newer. Believe it or not there are usually more serious problems with the newer structures than there there ever could be with the older tried and true buildings.

I am only going to state my personal opinion on this very thing: I believe that older buildings should be preserved at any cost. Thank God for the craftsmen of yesterday. Many of them were buried years and years before their grandchildren raised their children in these buildings that are still standing proud!

Do any of you actually believe that the newer homes and buildings being constructed today, will still be standing in the next 100 years?, and if they are, How much money will it take to keep them standing?

Well I know that we have barely scratched the surface with these little tid bits, but we have examined a few facts, and we have looked at possibilities and probabilities, so, I would like each of you to take a couple of deep breaths and say to yourselves: I am going to beat this thing and it’s not going to beat me.

Now take two aspirin and call me in the morning…..

Total Hardness and Water Quality
By Anna Hart 

Most adults have learned that water can be soft or hard. They have learned, too, that there is a connection between total hardness and water quality. Hard water reduces the power of your soap. In fact, hard water is often detected by noting the amount of soap required to form lather. Hard water may build up in hot water pipes and appliances, producing scale.

Hard Water Defined

Hard water is water that contains high levels of dissolved calcium, magnesium, and other mineral salts such as iron. The greater the amount of dissolved minerals in the water, the harder it is.

Total hardness is measured in grains per gallon (gpg) or parts per million (ppm). If water contains less than 3.5 gpg, it is considered soft water. If it contains more than 7 gpg, it is considered hard water. The American Society of Engineers’ water hardness classification table breaks it down this way.

* Soft: 0 to 3.5 gpg – 0 to 60 ppm

* Moderate: 3.6 to 7 gpg – 61 to 120 ppm

* Hard: 7.1 to 10.5 gpg – 121 to 180 ppm

* Very Hard: More than 10.5 gpg – more than 180 ppm

Making the Connection

Total hardness and water quality are connected. Hard water is safe for drinking, cooking, and other household uses, but it can cause problems.

One way in which total hardness and water quality are connected is the effect of such water on household plumbing. Total hardness means a build-up of scales inside pipes, especially those carrying hot water.

Total hardness and water quality are also connected in their effect on appliances that use water. Dishwashers and washing machines can decrease in cleaning and laundering ability. Water heaters can become less efficient. Refrigerators that dispense water can become clogged.

Aesthetically, total hardness and water quality are connected in those white, chalky deposits that accumulate on tubs, sinks, and cookware.

U.S. Water Quality

According to the 1997 National Water Quality Survey, 1 of 5 people surveyed in the U.S. is dissatisfied with the water quality in his or her home. This is related to the fact given by the U.S. Geological Survey: that 85 percent of the U.S. has hard water. Many people install water softeners in their homes to improve water quality.

Determining Water Quality

You can have your water quality tested if you are moving into a new area or a new home. If you have been living in the same home for a while, you will know if your water is hard by looking for these 7 signs:

1. You have difficulty working up lather from a bar of soap.

2. Your soaps and detergents don’t seem to clean well – you have dingy laundry in spite of your efforts to get it clean.

3. In the shower or bath, your soap leaves a film on your body and hair – you have dry skin and dull, limp hair.

4. You have to battle soap scum on bathtubs, shower tiles and doors, basins, and fixtures.

5. You see an increasing buildup of scale on your cookware such as tea kettle, coffee maker, and pasta pot. Your plumbing also contains scale.

6. Clogged pipes or appliances mean that water flow is reduced.

7. Your water heating costs are increasing due to scale buildup and mineral deposits, and you have to replace hot water heating elements more often.

Improving Water Quality

Treatment can improve water quality. You may use electromagnetic water conditioners, water filters, or water softeners.

Electromagnetic water conditioners improve water quality by sending water through a magnetic field. As the water passes between the magnets, its calcium and magnesium ions lose their scale-causing properties. Studies show that this relatively new invention does not technically soften water, but water quality is improved in that it no longer causes buildup of scales. Clothing also lasts longer, which is a definite increase in water quality.

Water filters are a second option for improving water quality, especially drinking water. Water filters can provide healthy drinking water by removing chlorine and other contaminants contained in water. Water filters can soften water, but they will not prevent scale buildup in pipes and water heaters.

Water softeners are a common way of improving water quality, and come in two types: chemical and mechanical. The water produced by chemical water softeners is not acceptable drinking water. Packaged chemicals are added directly to improve water quality in laundering and bathing, and are effective both in protecting clothing and guarding against dry skin and hair. Mechanical water softeners installed in your home will replace dissolved calcium and magnesium salts with sodium. This water is also not acceptable for drinking, especially by those who have hypertension. The water quality is greatly improved, however, for other uses. Lime scale is prevented; water heaters function efficiently; and laundered clothing is both cleaner and longer-lasting.

Soft Water

On the other end of the spectrum, total hardness and water quality are a benefit when that hardness level is below 3.5 gpg or 60 ppm. Soft water allows you to use less shampoo and soap, yet have shinier hair and softer skin. Soft water requires less soap or detergent in shower, laundry, kitchen, and household cleaning chores. It helps close look cleaner and last longer. It keeps water-using appliances and plumbing from wearing out as fast. Soft water keeps dishes and eating utensils spot-free, and extends the life of tea kettles and other cookware. Soft water reduces cleaning time by eliminating soap scum and buildup of scales.

Total hardness and water quality are closely connected, and you may find it worthwhile to use a water treatment system to improve your water quality – especially your drinking water.

©2007, Anna Hart. Anna Hart invites you to read more of her articles about water quality at http://www.healthydrinkingwaterblog.com Anna has also posted information on that site about salt water. If you want to learn why you should not drink water softened with sodium, you won’t want to miss her article on that subject.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Anna_Hart

Home Owner FAQ

Why ought I get my home’s electric system inspected?

A recent study from the FPRF or Fire Protection Research Foundation showed older homes may have life-threatening electrical conditions that need to be inspected and corrected by electric experts, such as a certified electrician. Electric fires that begin behind your walls can be amongst the most dangerous and deadly. Your family and the fire alarms in your home may not notice an electrical fire until it is fully engulfed, affording you less time and fewer choices for escape. Having your abode inspected by a skilled electrical professional person, such as a qualified electrician, is a simple step to protect you, your family unit, and your household.

Who would be considered a “qualified electrician?”

A qualified electrician is a disciplined professional who has skills, knowledge, and experience associated with the installation and repair of electric cabling and equipment. These electricians ought be familiar with the electrical building code prerequisites in the localities in which they do work, and should likewise be familiar with the most recent requirements of the National Electrical Code® (NEC®). If you’ve an older home and need it inspected, you also might want to consider finding an electrician who’s familiar with the NFPA 73, Electric Inspection Code for Existing Dwellings.

How much does an electrical inspection cost?

For a assortment of reasons, the price of an electrical inspection may deviate, although it’s typically low in comparison to other costs related to purchasing a home. Above all, the value of such an inspection is clear. By identifying potential perils before a dangerous situation occurs you’ll be protecting your family and your home.

My electrical outlets appear new. How do I know if there’s a problem in my home?

A recent first-of-its-kind study from the Fire Protection Research Foundation shows that substantial electrical system risks can exist and may stay out of sight within and “behind the walls” of older homes. The best way to evaluate and improve the electric safety of your home’s electrical system is to have it scrutinized by a competent electrician.

Can I do my own wiring?

Our lives virtually depend upon the safe utilization of electrical energy in our homes. Electricity is a leading cause of home fires in the United States. Even what some might think of as a “minor” problem can lead to fire. So, it’s always safest to consult a educated electrical professional prior to having any electrical work done.

What type of wiring should my home have?

If wiring is properly installed and maintained, even aged wiring can continue to perform effectively and safely. Troubles can occur in any type of wiring when it’s not been properly put in or maintained. Problems also come about when changes, that did not meet well accepted, established safety provisions, have been made in the electrical system after the home was originally constructed. For owners of older homes, it’s vital that their entire electrical system be scrutinised by a qualified electrician. Confer with these professionals to ascertain what wiring would fit your home best.

What is the National Electrical Code® and how does it affect my home?

The National Electrical Code®, or NEC®, is the world’s most widely embraced electrical safety code. The code is on a regular basis updated to include the latest safety provisos and is issued by the National Fire Protection Association. Homeowners should insure that all electrical work done in their home conforms to the current electrical safety provisions. To do so, work with a qualified electrician.

What sorts of electrical safety risks can I look for on my own?

* Check electrical cords to make sure the wires are not beaten-up, cracked or loose. Whenever the cords need to be repaired, take the item to a professional repair shop, employ a qualified electrician, or replace with a new item.
* Make sure cords are not coming across thresholds or below carpets and avoid pinching cords against walls or furniture. If needed, have a qualified electrician put in more outlets.
* Ground-fault circuit interrupters (GFCIs) reduce the danger of electrical shock by interrupting the electrical circuit when a electric shock hazard exists. Your home should have GFCIs about kitchen countertops, in bathroom(s), near laundry and utility sinks, in the garage, outside areas, in crawlspaces, and in unfinished basements.

But remember, the recent, first-of-its-kind written report from the Fire Protection Research Foundation demonstrates that real electrical system dangers might exist and can remain concealed in older homes. The best way to assess and improve the electrical safety of your home is to have your home audited by a trained electrical professional, such as a qualified electrician.

Where are ground-fault circuit interrupters (GFCIs) required to be installed by the current NEC®?

The 2008 National Electrical Code® (NEC®) mandates GFCI protection for all 125V, 15A, and 20A receptacles installed:

* in bathrooms
* to serve kitchen countertop surfaces
* near wet-bar, laundry and utility sinks
* in garages and accessory buildings
* in unfinished basements or crawl spaces
* outdoors
* near a pool, or almost anywhere else you are likely to come across water or moistness.

The NEC® also now expects that if you replace an existent outlet in a position requiring GFCI protection, you must put in a GFCI.

If your home does not have GFCIs in these areas because the electrical system was installed in accordance with prior editions of the NEC®, you may desire to look at installing GFCIs anyhow. In the United States., GFCI outlets are very low-cost. Valuate your own risk factors: Does your finished basement ever get wet? Do you have little children? Do you employ your garage outlets to power outdoor tools? Does H2O or melted snow ever pool inside your garage? If so, you had better, at a minimum, have GFCI protection in those regions.
What problems constitute a fire risk?

Call a qualified electrician or landlord if you have:

* Continual problems with blowing fuses or tripping breakers
* A tingling feeling when you contact an electrical appliance or other metallic objects
* Discolored or warm wall outlets
* A continual burning aroma or rubbery smell coming from an appliance, room, or area
* Flickering lights
* Sparks from an electric outlet
* Animal or insect infestation with the possibility of them gnawing on wiring
* Degradation due to moisture or flood damage
* Aged homes with out-of-date wiring that may demonstrate signs of cracking or damage to the wire insulating material.

Once again, check with a qualified electrician prior to doing any work on your electric system.

If my house doesn’t meet some of the rules and regulations, what should I do?

If you’re planning to modify your wiring, first check with your local building department about the licencing, permitting, and inspection necessities that may apply in your community. Prior to doing electrical work, we recommend that you have your home’s electrical system visited by a trained electrical professional person, such as a qualified electrician. And, make sure that work done in your home meets the most current electric safety requisites.

A typical septic system incorporates two components, the septic storage tank and the leeching field or septic area.
The Septic storage tank

The septic storage tank is a ample tank that is commonly buried below ground that amasses the H2O that comes in from your toilette, bathing tub, and sinks. Tanks can be built from concrete, steel, fibreglass, or polythene. The storage tank contains compartments were the solidified waste material and fluid wastes are broken up by nature by bacterium. The semisolid wastes and unsettled scum are entrapped in the storage tank. The fluid waste runs into the other part of your septic arrangement known as the septic field.

It’s conceivable to fill up the storage tank to the point that it clogs up into your house. To prevent that from occurrence, you should have your storage tank pumped out approximately every 3-5 years. Each arrangement is distinct, and the time betwixt pump-outs is impacted by the quantities of solid waste, H2O and solid materials, like bathroom tissue, that is put through the system.

The Septic Field or Absorption Field

The septic field, which is also known as a leeching bed, is an below ground area where perforated pipes are set up in rows. The water from the septic tank flows from the pipes and into the surrounding ground where it’s made clean by bacterial and the soil. How quick this works depends upon the soil type and the duration of the pipes.

If the soil permits the H2O to pass through easily and still filters the H2O, then a smaller septic field is necessary.

How to take care of your septic system

If the septic system is well well-kept, then it can last a lifetime. By keeping an eye on what you put in the system, you are able to cut down how frequently you need it get it pumped out and assure the helpful bacteria are kept healthy and effective. It is important to recall that what you wash down your toilette and pour down the drainpipe will finish up in your septic system.

Avoid driving weighty machinery over the septic storage tank and field. The compression of the earth above may crush your storage tank and cause the septic field to conk out. Also, plant grass above the septic field. Flora like trees and bushes could hurt your septic field and block off the pipes with their roots. Do not pave the soil above your septic system.

When you’re disinfecting your well, make certain the chlorine water isn’t flowing to or over your septic field. The chlorine may affect the breakdown of waste water by killing the helpful bacterium.

You’ve to be conscious of what you put in the septic system because you don’t want the storage tank to fill-up and you want to be sure that the bacterium can do their job of breaking up the waste. Small amounts of household cleaners won’t harm your septic system, but don’t pour excessive amounts of cleaners and chemicals down the drainpipe. Chemicals will kill the bacterium in the system and will cause the storage tank to fill-up faster. By avoiding the use of garbage disposal unit you’ll be able to cut back how frequently your storage tank needs to be pumped out. Disposal units use a lot of H2O, which can overflow your system. By conserving water as a whole you will be able to extend the use of your septic system.

Don’t use your toilet as a waste bucket. The more solid wastes, like tissues and bathroom tissue, put into the tank, the more frequently it will have to be pumped out and the greater the probability that it could back-up.
There are septic additive products on the market that claim they can step-up the efficiency of your septic system. Several environmental groups feel that these additives may have no effect or actually harm your system. The best method to take care of your system is by reducing chemicals and solvents, solid waste and water entering the system, allowing the septic system function naturally.

Question:

Our A/C unit isn’t cooling. The fan is running, but the air isn’t cold. I checked within the closet it’s in, and one of the copper color tubes entering A/C unit is encompassed with ice. This has occurred a couple of times before. We shut off the unit for a few hours, then it appears to be fine. The temperature outside is colder than normal (70’s) and it’s really humid. This is when this occurs. In our other home, the repairman stated this occurs when the coils are filthy. What do you believe is causing this?

Answer:

The service tech was accurate, the two primary reasons for an iced over coil are the coil is dingy, or the refrigerant charge is depleted. If it’s the charge, be sure the leak is located and rectified or they’ll be back. I’d have them show you the leak before and after it’s repaired.

Air conditioner stopping dead

There is an assortment of things that can induce air conditioning freezing.

The 1st thing to do is ascertain if the interior (evaporator-air handler) fan and compressor are both running simultaneously, and then turn the whole thing off and allow all the ice melt.

If the compressor is running and the evaporator fan Is not, you have already ascertained the primary cause of your air conditioner freezing problem.

The inside coil will freeze up whenever the compressor runs without the evaporator fan running.

Ensure to see if frost has developed enough to stop the fan.

If it has, (and it is feasible with wall mounted ductless mini split units and a few window units), the fan could run unremarkably once the ice melts, and the cause of your air conditioning freezing trouble could be something else.

If you’re the equipment owner seeking to attend of this air conditioning freezing problem yourself, and you get to the point that you have to call in a technician, it could spare him time, (which saves you money) if you’ve already affirmed whether the evaporator fan was or was not operating with the compressor, and if ice had built up enough to stop the fan.

Once the ice has thawed, check the fan or blower blades, and ascertain if they are clear and not impeded by something like a plastic bag, other junk, or mold growth.

Remove any blockages, and if needed, remove the blower and clean it.

Before busting into the rest of the unit, check the thermostat and make certain it is working right.

Do the cool contacts open when the t-stat is turned up to a higher temp than the room temp?

If not, the thermostat has gave out, and never turns the unit off, which can decidedly cause an air conditioning freezing problem.

Do the fan contacts open and close when the thermostat setting is turned higher and lower than the room temperature?

If the fan contacts never close but the cool contacts do, the thermostat has failed and caused your air conditioning freezing problem.

If the fan contacts close, but the fan does not run, check into the fan relay in the air handler.

If the fan electrical relay isn’t experiencing control voltage, the circuit is open between the thermostat and the fan relay.

Look for a loose connection, wrong connection, dis-connection, or damaged wire.

If it gets control voltage but does not energize, it’s failed, and must be replaced.

If it energizes but the fan does not run, ensure for line voltage on the load side of the electrical relay.

If there’s line voltage on the load side of the electrical relay and the fan does not run, you will have to troubleshoot the load side electrical circuit and the fan motor as elaborated further on.

If the thermostat checks all right, adjust the thermostat to “fan on” and be sure the blower runs in the correct direction and at the appropriate RPM, that it’s installed in the housing correctly, and is the correct size.

If the blower is installed backwards or is running in reverse, the coil could freeze up. (Though I’ve seen numerous units that did not freeze up with reversed blowers.)

You will need to turn the blower around, reverse the revolution of the motor if it’s a reversible rotation motor, or install a motor with the correct revolution.

A blower that runs excessively slow can cause an air conditioner freezing problem.

You will need to install a motor that runs at the correct speed.

A blower that’s too small, or that’s established in the housing wrong, can cause an air conditioning freezing problem.

You’ll need to put in the correct size blower, and make certain it’s installed correctly in the housing.

This entails centered, with volutes installed, and the curve of the vanes matching the outlet of the housing.

If the blower motor is the improper size, if the bearings are failing, or if it has an open start winding or a failed run capacitor, it could be overheating and ceasing intermittently.

A motor that is overheating and stopping intermittently can cause an air conditioning freezing problem.

To check the evaporator fan motor:

Check the resistance readings of the motor windings.

If you get a clear resistance between all three windings, the motor windings should be ok.

Turn the shaft. If it twists free and easily, the bearings should be ok.

If the shaft is hard to turn, lube the bearings with 20 SAE electric motor oil if there are lube ports.

If that frees the shaft, it should run ok for a while, but the bearings or bushings may be degenerated to the point that they will sieze once again soon.

If the shaft does not free up, replace the motor.

If the shaft turns freely, check out the capacitor.

The most proficient way to check the capacitor is to replace it with a brand-new one of the correct rating.

If the motor runs, close the air handler panels, and take an amp draw on the motor.

If it is normal it should run hunky-dory, and if the motor was the problem, your air conditioning freezing problem should cease.

Ok, if you’ve verified that the controls and fan are good, take a break for a diet soda, and then we will see if the evaporator coil or ducting are the cause of your air conditioning freezing problem.

Take a look at the evaporator coil.

Is it clean? Can you see your flashlight beaming through from the opposite side?

If the coil’s dirty, you will have to do some air conditioning coil cleaning.

A dirty evaporator coil is a frequent cause of air conditioning freezing,

And it’s one of the problems that can be prevented with regularly scheduled air conditioning maintenance.

If the coil is clean, check the ducting to make sure nothing is obstructing airflow.

Obstructed ducting will stop air flow through the evaporator coil, and this will induce the coil to freeze up.

If your coil is clean and the ducting is clear, let’s operate the unit and check out the operating pressures and temperatures.

If your discharge and suction pressures are low, with a low compressor amp draw, low subcooling, high superheat, and low temperature splits accross your evaporator and condenser coils, you probably have a leak.

Shut the unit down, find the leak and fix it.

If you are totally unable to locate the leak with a bubble solution or electronic detector, you will have to charge in refrigerant to correct pressures, temperatures, and superheat and subcooling values, and it would be a good idea to add some air conditioning leak detector dye so the leak can be found subsequently.

If your suction pressure is low enough to cause the evaporator to freeze up, but you have high subooling and high superheat, either your metering device is restricted or the wrong size, your drier is restricted, or your liquid line is restricted.

Evaluate all of the system’s operating characteristics to isolate the restriction.

5 Signs That Your Air Conditioner Filter May Be Causing Problems
By Donald Munn

In an effort to reduce indoor pollution in your home you may actually be impacting your air conditioner in a negative way. Installing a very efficient air conditioner filter is one of those things that can have a negative impact. A high efficiency air filter can negatively impact air conditioner performance. Your ultimate goal is to have the most efficient air conditioner filter possible while having the least impact air conditioner performance.

Five Signs Of Trouble:

1.Evaporator Coil Ices Up

2.Long Run Times

3.Poor Air Flow From The Vents

4.Collapsing Filters

5.Unit Stops Cooling For No Apparent Reason

The Evaporator Ices Up Every Couple Of Months Or Even More Often

This is a common problem with air conditioning equipment and is related to air flow or low load conditions. Air conditioners are designed to have a minimum amount of air flow for each ton of cooling. When air flow falls below design requirements the evaporator coil can ice up. If you are experiencing this problem you can use a slightly less efficient air filter. If this is only a problem every few months then all you need to do is change the filter in you air conditioner more frequently.

Long Run Time Means More Energy Consumption

This is a problem that you may or may not be aware of. If better air quality is more important than slightly higher operating costs then ignore this one, unless you are also experiencing symptom number one also. The solution to this problem is more frequent filter changes or a less efficient filter.

Poor Air Flow From The Vents

Assuming you have a properly sized duct system that has balanced air flow to all rooms you should feel the same amount of air coming from all vents. If you notice that air flow from the vents that are the farthest from the main duct line or on other floors begins to decline as filter change time approaches then you should consider changing your filter more often or using a less efficient filter.

Collapsing Filters

This can happen when filters are in the system too long and they become so dirty and restrict air flow so badly that they actually are sucked right out of the filter rack. More durable filters will stay in the filter rack and cause the same symptoms as number one above. The solution is to change filters more often, use better quality filters or both.

Unit Stops Cooling

Some air conditioner manufacturers install Freeze Stats in air handlers to prevent problems with icing up. When the evaporator temperature becomes too low, a thermostat will open and not allow the compressor to operate. When the evaporator temperature returns to its normal range the thermostat closes and the unit returns to normal operation.

These are some of the most common problems that you may encounter with your air conditioner. The solution to these problems is to change your air conditioner filter regularly, as recommended by the manufacturer. If following manufacturer guidelines does not correct the problem then you may want to consider a filter that has less of an impact on air flow.

For answers to all of your air conditioner filter questions visit us at http://www.furnacefiltercare.com. Take part in our surveys, ask for help or browse through our informative articles.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Donald_Munn

Trouble Shooting Air Conditioners
By Terry Manlick

Before you call a air conditioning service repair man to check your air conditioner that’s not cooling you may want to check some of these possible causes. First and most obvious is to be sure your system air filter is not restricted. In many cases this will cause your evaporator or indoor coil to freeze up. If the system has a fan v-belt make sure it is not cracked broke or slipping. If the evaporator coil is froze up you may notice condensate leaking in and around the furnace, air handler or window type A/C unit. Another more apparent sign would be actually seeing ice build up on the coil or refrigeration lines connecting the evaporator and condenser.

Another cause for your system freezing up could be closed or blocked supply registers. In some cases people will close registers to unoccupied areas of their home for energy savings but closing to many can cause more problems than it’s worth. System freeze ups can also be related to a lose of refrigerant with in your air conditioner. If your system is low on refrigerant you will have to have a qualified air conditioning repair technician locate and repair the leak as well as properly recharge the system. Any time your air conditioner system is froze up you should place the thermostats fan switch to the on position and the cool system switch to off for a long enough time to allow the coils to completely thaw. After checking some or all of the potential problems you can try to run the air conditioner again. If you have air blowing out of your supply registers but it’s not cool you will want to check the condenser or out door unit to be sure it is running. If you do not hear anything running check the breaker or disconnect switch at the condenser. Their may also be bad fuses in the disconnect box. Tripped breakers or blow fused are typically caused by problems that need to be addressed by a technician . It is possible that a power surge or electrical storm could also cause a breaker to trip and once you reset it the system will be fine. Another common cause for the condenser not functioning is a broken or shorted low voltage wire. Mice and other rodents will tend to chew though these wires. The low voltage wire is typically a small two conductor wire that runs along side the refrigerant lines. If the condenser is running but not cooling you may want to clean it. This can be done by turning off power to it, then wet it down with a garden hose. Apply a air conditioning coil cleaning solvent to the coil surface. Convenient aerosol spray cans or mixable powder form can be purchased online at HVAC Maintenance & Supplies.

(www.mainsupplies.com) Allow the coil to soak for 3-5 minutes then flush out with a garden hose. Be sure the water pressure is not so high that it damages the coil fins. A coil fin tool, also available online at HVAC Maintenance & Supplies can be used to straighten the fins. Repeat this process until the water starts to flush out relatively clear. Safety glasses and rubber gloves should be worn when using coil cleaning chemicals. If your air conditioner is a portable window type you can carefully remove the units outer casing, apply coil cleaner to both evaporator and condenser coils then flush with water. Most dirt will build up on the inside of the condenser coil that can not be seen with out removing the units outer casing. These tips may not resolve all your air conditioning problems but I can tell you that as a service technician myself these are some of the most common problems I have encountered.

Information provided by Terry Manlick with HVAC Maintenance & Supplies. Other maintenance articles as well as hvac maintenance products such as filters, v-belts, humidifier filters and coil cleaners can be found online at http://www.mainsupplies.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Manlick

Installing a Toilet
By Mark Donovan

The installation of a toilet is a relatively easy job for a homeowner. With a couple of wrenches, a screwdriver and a few shims a new toilet can be installed in about one hour.

Toilets can be purchased at any home improvement store or plumbing supply center. Typically a gravity flush toilet costs between $150 and $300, however the price can double or triple for more elaborate units, such as pressure flush systems. Today’s toilets are mandated to use no more than 1.6 gallons per flush, where as older units used as much as 5 gallons. The initial 1.6 gallon toilets were notorious for frequently clogging, however over the past several years suppliers have improved the performance of these low water-use systems.

Setting the Toilet

A toilet usually consists of two main parts: a bowl and a tank. It is best to first install the bowl. Prior to seating the bowl, check if the closet flange has been temporarily plugged with insulation or a rag to prevent sewer gases from escaping. Remove this. Next set the bowl on top of the closet flange to determine if it sits level. If it does not, prepare some shims to use later.

Next remove the bowl, and insert the closet bolts (approximately 2” long bolts) into the slots on the closet flange.

Then turn the bowl over and install a wax ring gasket over the outlet of the bowl. This outlet is also know as the “horn”.

Place the bowl onto the closet flange. Make sure the bowl is well seated by rocking the bowl down. Once the bowl has been seated, place a level on it and use the shims as necessary. Next, using nuts and washers tighten up the bolts. Note: be careful not to over-tighten these bolts as it could crack the bowl.

Next attach the tank to the bowl using the tank bolts, nuts and washers. Again, do not over tighten.

Installing the Float Supply Unit

Install the float supply unit into the tank and hook up the water line to the tank inlet. Again, do not over tighten and make sure to use the washers supplied.

Next, turn the supply line on and adjust the float as necessary.
Finally, caulk around the base of the unit and you are done.

Me_Donovan@comcast.net
http://www.homeadditionplus.com
http://www.homeaddition.blogspot.com

Over the past 20+ years Mr. Donovan has been involved with building homes and additions to homes. His projects have included: building a vacation home, building additions and garages on to existing homes, and finishing unfinished homes. Mr. Donovan’s formal education and profession have been as an Electrical Engineer and Marketing Manager.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Mark_Donovan